Author Topic: RGB eParrot Questions and Answers (Read 24790 times)

bluc · « **Reply #20 on:** January 30, 2018, 11:45:40 AM »

Found the bit about the sdfatconfig.h edit. All good uploaded fine. Now to wait for rest of my bits and organise a case.

bluc · « **Reply #21 on:** February 02, 2018, 03:36:11 PM »

Wondering when calibrating the temp sensor whats the best thermometer to compare it to? An under tounge thermometer or other analouge thermometer. A certain type of digital thermometer?. What would you fellas class as boiling water? Rolling boil for x amount of time? Think I have my enclosure print sorted thanks ketal and I will put my hand up as another no resistor volunteer my cables are 3m. Cheers bluc

ketel3 · « **Reply #22 on:** February 02, 2018, 04:08:15 PM »

Quote from: bluc on February 02, 2018, 03:36:11 PM

Wondering when calibrating the temp sensor whats the best thermometer to compare it to? An under tounge thermometer or other analouge thermometer. A certain type of digital thermometer?. What would you fellas class as boiling water? Rolling boil for x amount of time? Think I have my enclosure print sorted thanks ketal and I will put my hand up as another no resistor volunteer my cables are 3m. Cheers bluc

Hi Bluc,
I used a calibrated digital meter,to be honest the boiling point is not that important,WE use it around 78 dgrs and that is where you want it correct.
I took a thermocan with hot water around that temp with my earlyer used meters.
You can find it here on the forum complete with photo's just find the topic.

NOW to the eparrot:
I speak about a colum now ..............
For the e parrot do not calibrate,use the practical way as you will have to adjust your reading again for sure.

I did it as follows , started the Kettle3

and let it warm up,than stablize for as minimum of 30 minits but up to 45 minits would even be better,than adjust under complete reflux to 78,4 dgrs or around that temp.
Or 96% alc.reading on the e parrot.

Edwin stated before temp in a colum is different as into water,so if you calibrate in water you have to to do it again it is useless.

On what equipment are you going to use the eparrot ?

Now I used it several times I will not distill again without,I love the alarms.
Cheers

bluc · « **Reply #23 on:** February 03, 2018, 03:18:58 PM »

I am building a 4" plated bubble cap. As seen in the still section. I have my thermometer above the rc. Should I also have one below it. And did you fellas work out the best place for the boiler sensor.
I havnt used a traditional parrot for nearly 2 years. I have one I built from shifu's code very early on in old forum. And I wouldnt be without a digital one now .

Edwin Croissant · « **Reply #24 on:** February 03, 2018, 09:10:41 PM »

In the latest program version I made a compiler switch for a temperature sensor after the RC.

Code: [Select]

/*
 * -----Experimental-----
 * The vapor from a boiling water ethanol mixture is superheated.
 * In a CM still the vapor after passing the reflux condenser is
 * no longer superheated, resulting in a lower temperature.
 * #define HOTVAPOR 0 when the temperature sensor is placed after the
 * reflux condenser. Please note that at full reflux the vapor
 * temperature is lost.
 */

#define HOTVAPOR 1

I think that measuring the vapor temperature after the RC is more accurate, a disadvantage might be that at full reflux the temperature reading is lost as no vapor get through. But maybe uncondensable gasses in the wash pass through giving you some kind of indication. Please let us know

My two cents for the placement of the boiler temperature sensor is below the lowest fluid level and some distance away from the heating element.

Cheers,

Edwin

bluc · « **Reply #25 on:** February 04, 2018, 04:02:06 PM »

Awesome edwin how would you recomend calibrating the parrot with sensor above rc?

Edwin Croissant · « **Reply #26 on:** February 05, 2018, 01:50:42 AM »

Measure strength of distillate the conventional way and and adjust eParrot to match the reading.

bluc · « **Reply #27 on:** February 05, 2018, 01:59:58 PM »

Awesome thanks..

bluc · « **Reply #28 on:** February 06, 2018, 05:43:58 AM »

My bmp280 has vinn gnd sdl scl pins will this work or do I need a different model. By the way the robotdyn links are no longer working getting a 404 error..

Edwin Croissant · « **Reply #29 on:** February 06, 2018, 01:36:13 PM »

Robotdyn updated their website, new link is https://robotdyn.com/barometric-pressure-sensor-bmp280.html

You need a bmp280 module with 3.3v regulator and level shifters like the Thinary Electronic module and the one from Adafruit.

bluc · « **Reply #30 on:** February 06, 2018, 02:50:32 PM »

Thanks again edwin will track one down . Robotdyn is out of stock others must sell them..

bluc · « **Reply #31 on:** February 11, 2018, 06:16:34 AM »

Got a quote for getting the case printed and would be $95 bit much for me. So I got an extra enclosure when I built my original parrot so I am going to try and mod it for the rgb screen. one like this

RGB eParrot Questions and Answers

images (4).jpg (14.86 kB. 350x273 - viewed 851 times.)

mine is black just gotta hope the screen and buttons of the lcd shield will work. Still waiting on shield so will update when it arrives

bluc · « **Reply #32 on:** February 13, 2018, 09:48:03 AM »

Hi edwin is the silicone hose 2mm id 4mm od silicone hose the one to use? How is the pressure sensor you mentioned? Does it work ok?

bluc · « **Reply #33 on:** February 13, 2018, 11:50:52 AM »

Also is there a full stainless version of thenpressure sensor available?

Edwin Croissant · « **Reply #34 on:** February 13, 2018, 08:08:15 PM »

I think that the best way to connect the sensor to the boiler is with a 50 cm piece of silicon tube (2x4 mm) to a larger diameter vertical tubing on the boiler. I think that the air in the silicone tube will act as a separator between the sensor and the hot vapor. (please note that this is untested)
The larger vertical tubing is preferable transparent (PTFE?) so the operator can observe that the pressure connection to the boiler is not blocked by foam.

I am not aware of an affordable sensor that can measure 20cm H2O or so in stainless steel.
The sensor seems to be very stable and is used in washing machines to measure the water level. the pressure side of the diagram is sealed with silicone.

If you are going to try this you might be the first one and your feed back will be appreciated

bluc · « **Reply #35 on:** February 15, 2018, 09:08:39 AM »

Sealed with silicone is good enough for me.I have the same sensor as you ordered. I am not sure if it left china before new year or not so will see. I will have to work out how to add a hose barb/nipple to my 1.5" tri clamp end cap. Still working on modifying the enclosure..

bluc · « **Reply #36 on:** February 18, 2018, 11:45:09 AM »

Wondering about the pin you cut off does it interfere mechanically or electronicaly I left mine on and got this

RGB eParrot Questions and Answers

screen.jpg (281.83 kB. 350x170 - viewed 738 times.)

Edwin Croissant · « **Reply #37 on:** February 19, 2018, 12:58:37 AM »

The pin to cut off interferes with the CS of the SD card on the Robotdyn Datalogger shield. Not with the barometric sensor. Is the barometric sensor connected?

bluc · « **Reply #38 on:** February 19, 2018, 01:56:13 AM »

No baro connected what is the cs?

bluc · « **Reply #39 on:** February 19, 2018, 01:58:21 AM »

So its electrical interference and I should definitely cut it off?