Post by: ShiFu on September 20, 2017, 07:33:58 AM
This advanced and feature-rich eParrot is easy and inexpensive to build.
It also sports the world's first Custom-3D-Printed Enclosure (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2546540) for an eParrot.
And everything here is open source, ready for you to make your own copy.
So solder it together, print it yourself or ask a friend for help.
Everything you need you will find here.
intro screen.png (132.09 kB. 350x197 - viewed 7147 times.)A basic recap of this project's features are:
The hardware selection is designed to achieve a highly functional eParrot with a minimum of assembly time, product sourcing, effort and cost.
The software that powers this project includes:
- The System Setup and Calibration. It is easy to use and it is menu driven. It saves changes to memory so they are not lost after powering off.
- The ability to use two or more thermometer sensors. One for the boiler and one for the still head are covered in this manual.
- Each thermometer sensor can be calibrated using the on-screen menu. And that calibration is also saved to memory so it is not lost unless the on-board battery is dead or removed.
- It includes 4 alarm set-points and an on-board buzzer alarm.
- It can be programed for the back-light to change colors which adds a new visual layer for the distiller.
- The on-board barometer automatically corrects the displayed %ABV of the distillate to compensate for barometric pressure changes.
- The code checks to insure the barometer and thermometer sensors are working before you can continue to the Main display screen.
- The remaining time needed for boil-up is updated and displayed until Fores are produced.
- It has an on-board Real Time Clock that is set up and ready for data logging once the time has been set in the menu. Plug in a SD card and go.
- The potential alcohol remaining in the boiler is displayed.
Post by: ShiFu on September 21, 2017, 05:12:30 AM
http://eparrot.org/index.php/topic,480.0.html
Jeff's Enclosure build thread is at:
http://eparrot.org/index.php/topic,484.msg6117.html#msg6117
The enclosure download is located at:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2546540
The friendly manual (to include sensor calibration instructions):
http://eparrot.org/index.php/topic,489.msg6228.html#msg6228
Features and Benefits:
http://eparrot.org/index.php/topic,480.msg6108.html#msg6108
Library Instructions:
http://eparrot.org/index.php/topic,493.msg6258.html#msg6258
Questions and Answers for building your own:
http://eparrot.org/index.php/topic,495.msg6176.html#msg6176
Post by: ShiFu on September 21, 2017, 06:17:03 AM
You need to gather the following parts. I paid about $25 for everything but your mileage may vary.
** Arduino Uno R3 - available everywhere (make sure you order the 328p version).
** BMP280 Barometer (http://robotdyn.com/catalog/sensors/weather.html)
** Data Logging Shield (http://robotdyn.com/data-logger-shield-for-arduino-microsd-card-rtc.html)
** RGB LCD Shield (http://robotdyn.com/lcd-rgb-16x2-keypad-buzzer-shield-for-arduino.html)
** micro SD card flexible extension cable (eBay? Amazon? About 12 inches long is good.) (http://eparrot.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=484.0;attach=3775;image) Remove plastic end before using.
** 2 each DS18B20 sensors, 2 each 4K7 resistors, a micro-SD card for data logging, and several screw terminals (http://eparrot.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=480.0;attach=3738;image) to connect the sensor wires to the Data Shield.
Pin D9 from the RGB LCD shield must be removed as it interferes with the CS pin of the Data logger shield.
D9 pin removed.png (189.69 kB. 350x262 - viewed 6901 times.)
Post by: ShiFu on September 21, 2017, 02:55:36 PM
While waiting on the hardware to arrive, get Edwin's RGB LCD Sketch to compile on the Uno.
You really do want the sketch working to troubleshoot the installation of the sensors.
Start Here (http://eparrot.org/index.php/topic,480.msg6046.html#msg6046) to download the sketch and libraries. Also, give a read to the friendly manual (http://eparrot.org/index.php/topic,489.0.html) to help get the libraries set up.
I think it is important to remind everyone to empty your Arduino libraries folder and download and install fresh using the links on the sketch provided by Edwin.
When you have the Uno programmed and the two shields connected (but no sensors yet) you'll get a nice error message at startup:
no baro.JPG (167.18 kB. 350x344 - viewed 6551 times.)Post by: ShiFu on September 21, 2017, 03:10:49 PM
This is where you will spend the most of your assembly time. And before you solder anything, think twice or three times.
Space on the board is limited and the components need to be soldered in order because some will be hidden under other components.
First, remove the battery before soldering anything and carefully note which way the battery needs to be reinserted.
I ordered 3 shields and only one came with the battery properly inserted - 2 were upside down.
That caused them to discharge and they had to be replaced. I doubt there is a charging circuit for the battery on the data shield.
I noticed that without the battery my sensor offsets were not saved to memory. I got crazy sensor readings on each startup without the battery and the menu's offsets were always way, way off of what I thought was stored after a power cycle. And of course the Real Time Clock reset itself to zero.
-------------------------------------
It is now time for us to add the barometer and then the two thermometers. And we'll use the RGB sketch to troubleshoot the installation.
We'll be trying to get to this before thinking about turning on the soldering iron:
begin data shield.JPG (288.01 kB. 350x281 - viewed 6618 times.)
Post by: ShiFu on September 22, 2017, 04:59:04 AM
IMG_0282.JPG (67.13 kB. 350x278 - viewed 6388 times.) IMG_0283.JPG (115.82 kB. 350x341 - viewed 4198 times.) IMG_0284.JPG (114.6 kB. 350x326 - viewed 4140 times.)Then cut off the unnecessary pins:
remove unnecessary pins.JPG (101.94 kB. 350x341 - viewed 4169 times.)UNO R3 BMP280
5V 5V
GND GND
SCL (A5) SCK
SDA (A4) SDI
Leave the other pins disconnected.
bmp280 sch.png (33.43 kB. 350x268 - viewed 3879 times.)
Post by: ShiFu on September 22, 2017, 07:44:16 AM
Also the Gnd pin of the baro to Gnd on the Uno.
The baro SCK goes to Uno A5 and SDI goes to Uno A4.
But if you solder it now you are screwed. You need to get the little bits like resistors and stuff soldered to the board first.
solder1.JPG (178.25 kB. 350x338 - viewed 4167 times.) solder2.JPG (159.08 kB. 350x241 - viewed 4228 times.) solder3.jpg (184.54 kB. 350x228 - viewed 4229 times.) done-bottom.JPG (162.85 kB. 350x340 - viewed 4192 times.)Bend the barometer's pins over and solder the connections.
done-top.JPG (177.1 kB. 350x252 - viewed 4157 times.)DS18B20 sensor
4K7 (4.7K) resistor
Red = 5v
Black = Gnd
Yellow = Data
dallas wiring.jpg (30.57 kB. 350x285 - viewed 3886 times.)NOTE: The jury is still out on if the 4.7K resistors are needed or not. (http://eparrot.org/index.php/topic,487.msg6264.html#msg6264)
I'm hoping we have a definitive answer soon.
Post by: ShiFu on September 22, 2017, 08:25:56 AM
Now assemble your Uno + data shield with barometer but don't attach the thermometers yet.
(Go ahead and install the RTC battery.)
This time the "No Barometer" error message should not appear if you soldered it together properly.
And now you should be greeted by the Splash Screen that is quickly followed by 'Sensor error' because no DS18B20 thermometer sensors are connected yet.
splash screen.JPG (197.55 kB. 350x255 - viewed 4149 times.) no thermometers.JPG (202.67 kB. 350x258 - viewed 4079 times.)Power down and attach one sensor and power up again. If you get a temperature reading on the top line of the LCD you are measuring with the Column sensor.
If you get a temperature reading on the bottom line of the LCD you are measuring with the Boiler sensor.
Now connect both DS18B20's to the data shield. Power up and enjoy your new marvel.
It is now a Fully Functional eParrot.
2sensors.png (181.27 kB. 350x262 - viewed 4205 times.)Edit: Couldn't squeeze in the aviation type connectors to this project enclosure so I opted to save them for a different project.
Just drill a hole and wire direct to the PCB screw terminals.
Post by: ShiFu on September 22, 2017, 08:45:30 AM
With luck you should have your RGB eParrot enclosure already printed and you are eager to but your new parrot in its pretty box.
And that, my patient friends, will take us to the final step of this build...
Post by: ShiFu on September 22, 2017, 08:56:47 AM
This is the crowd pleaser. Wrapping chunky electronics in a slick case. What's not to like?!
Jeff's enclosure build thread is here. (http://eparrot.org/index.php/topic,484.msg6117.html#msg6117) The download for the 3D print files are here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2546540).
Locate where you will drill the holes for the sensor cables. I put one on bottom for the boiler and one on top for the column. Drill the holes the same size as the cable and it will not move around.
Next, snap the Uno into place, carefully insert the data shield, and feed the sensor cables through.
You can now connect the wires to the screw terminals. Keep in mind that Data Pin 7 is for the boiler and so it should lead towards the bottom of the enclosure.
encl 1.JPG (132.53 kB. 350x262 - viewed 4095 times.)Insert the microSD card extension ribbon into the data shield, it will make an obvious clicking sound when inserted.
A 2 GB SD card is probably much more than you would ever need.
encl 2.JPG (122.81 kB. 350x262 - viewed 4013 times.)Insert the RGB LCD shield, carefully covering the SD ribbon.
Now is a good time to put the printed button arrows on the buttons.
encl 3.JPG (122.06 kB. 350x262 - viewed 4063 times.)Thread the SD socket into the keeper on the enclosure lid. Carefully line up the buttons before snapping everything into place.
encl 4.JPG (131.31 kB. 350x262 - viewed 4019 times.)Snap the bezel into place and go right now and pour yourself a cold one.
encl 5.JPG (117.1 kB. 350x262 - viewed 4036 times.)I'm thinking I like silver buttons on the black parrot.
Post by: ShiFu on September 22, 2017, 12:13:34 PM
The bar is now open. Come on in and post away. :D
Post by: ketel3 on September 22, 2017, 01:38:35 PM
I think after the fine explanation it must be possible to build it step by step.
All other build where fine too but sometimes with isues for noobs like me to complicated .
Cheers K3
Post by: ShiFu on September 22, 2017, 05:18:09 PM
It includes a few nice things like a pressure sensor for the boiler, an extra DS18B20 for sensing if your cooling water is too hot (I like that!). Plus numerous other updates so its always best to stay current with Edwin.
To disable those alarms solder a wire from A1 to GND (for boiler pressure) and a wire from A2 to GND (for the missing temperature sensor).
You can easily do this by soldering jumper wires on the RGB shield:
to add jumpers.png (118.5 kB. 350x217 - viewed 4046 times.)I'm not sure about the boiler pressure sensor for my needs since I don't distill anything that can clog the column but I certainly do understand that other folks have had disasters from clogged columns so that sensor (and alarm) would be right up their alley.
BUT I will very soon be modifying my brand spanking new RGB eParrot to accommodate the extra DS18D20 temperature sensor so I can keep tabs on my product condenser. I've had several close calls over the years and this is definitely on my To Do list.
Post by: ShiFu on September 22, 2017, 08:22:30 PM
Here are some things I've learned lately and will be working on presenting tomorrow..
Blue screen= silent alarm with red color flashing
Green screen= buzzer with red color flashing
White (or very light blue?) = no alarm
Set the parrot's menu presets for the alarms with FORES being 1 on the menu list.
As each preset temperature is reached you will get an alarm depending on the screen color you have chosen.
(I'll explain in more detail later about the presets and how the alarms work).
Then press the right arrow key once to:
(1) deactivate that alarm and
(2) advance to the next preset alarm temperature and
(3) ready the next preset alarm to activate.
Yep, all that with a single button press.
It is sometimes hard to remember that this is an Arduino sketch because it runs so effortlessly - embedded on my $3 Uno.
Edwin's Arduino sketch is crazy good and I'll need some time to document and present it to you here, so have some faith and be patient. I'll probably get to it soon, maybe even as soon as tomorrow or next week or year-- but not later than that!!
Alarm presets are one of the coolest features of the RGB eParrot.
And there are other features that we will explore later, like sensor calibration ;)
Stay tuned as this leads us to The Next Step in our RGB eParrot adventure.
Post by: ShiFu on September 23, 2017, 07:56:29 AM
So to RTFM click here. (http://eparrot.org/index.php/topic,489.msg6228.html#msg6228)
Post by: YHB on September 23, 2017, 10:18:30 AM
Shifu, now you have the possibility of four sensor cables into the parrot. That may be a lot to manage in a small space and may not look very elegant. Have you considered a multi core cable / wiring harness type installation? I am sure that is the way I will be going when the last piece of my kit arrives :(
Just; One 5V connection, One Ground, One core to each of the three temperature sensors and One to the boiler pressure sensor = One six core cable.
Edwin; to make allowance for your future possible thoughts / developments, do you intend to add the sensors alarms for vapour vent / and reflux condensor temperature that you have discussed previously? I may need to to source some eight core cable ;)
Post by: ketel3 on September 23, 2017, 10:03:53 PM
Silly question maybe but I'm not familiar with the stuf,and soon others will check out this topic too with poor knowledge like me. ???
Post by: Edwin Croissant on September 24, 2017, 12:02:36 AM
Edwin; to make allowance for your future possible thoughts / developments, do you intend to add the sensors alarms for vapour vent / and reflux condensor temperature that you have discussed previously? I may need to to source some eight core cable ;)
I'm not intending to add any more external sensors.
I got now:
- Vapor temperature
- Boiler temperature
- Condenser vent 1
- Condenser vent 2 (not yet implemented, only for VM)
- Boiler pressure
I think that you need a larger display (more characters) if you want to show cooling water in and outlet temperatures etc.
What about the micro sd card,is it just a option or is a part of the running program located on it ? in other words can you leave the sd card out? and upgrade later if you want your data logged?
You only need a SD card to log, if there is no card the program will say: No card if you attempt to log.
Post by: ketel3 on September 24, 2017, 12:13:46 AM
Another question,
You need a uno R3 but there are 2 versions on the Robodyn page if you look down the page :
UNO R3 CH340G (R3-ATmega168/CH340G) $2.89
UNO R3 CH340G (R3-ATmega328/CH340G) $3.19
The link in the explanation here brings you to the $ 2.89 version but is that the correct one as maybe the memory of that one is to small ?
rgds K3
EDIT: You wrote the mega 328 is needed,so one should order the correct one. :)
Post by: Edwin Croissant on September 24, 2017, 12:28:39 AM
Thanks Edwin,
Another question,
You need a uno R3 but there are 2 versions on the Robodyn page if you look down the page :
UNO R3 CH340G (R3-ATmega168/CH340G) $2.89
UNO R3 CH340G (R3-ATmega328/CH340G) $3.19
The link in the explanation here brings you to the $ 2.89 version but is that the correct one as maybe the memory of that one is to small ?
rgds K3
EDIT: You wrote the mega 328 is needed,so one should order the correct one. :)
That was a close one, just updated the page ;D
Post by: YHB on September 24, 2017, 12:45:14 AM
Post by: ketel3 on September 24, 2017, 01:34:09 AM
see below the page of robotdyne
1 shows assembled
1 shows semi assembled
Even more confusion the assembled one is cheaper :o
The semi assembled is not available
I think they made a mistake and reversed the price for both.
I ordered the assembled one now but I think I will get the semi assembled one,I hope only the pins and connectors has to be mounted,otherwise I have a problem :'(
cheers K3
Post by: Edwin Croissant on September 24, 2017, 02:22:32 AM
I bought the R3-ATmega328/CH340G but the USB is a micro version and not the printer type USB - is this an issue?No, personally I dislike the printer type as it is so big. My favorite is the mini, easier to insert, but the micro works as well.
One more isue,the shield has 2 versions.
see below the page of robotdyne
1 shows assembled
1 shows semi assembled
Even more confusion the assembled one is cheaper :o
The semi assembled is not available
I think they made a mistake and reversed the price for both.
I ordered the assembled one now but I think I will get the semi assembled one,I hope only the pins and connectors has to be mounted,otherwise I have a problem :'(
cheers K3
The semi assembled dat logger shield got a yellow dot, probably as it is not in stock. Maybe they only got assembled ones and if you order one without the headers (if that's the difference) they have to desolder the headers, and the labor is added to the cost.
I always buy through AliExpress as they accept iDeal.
Post by: ketel3 on September 24, 2017, 09:26:43 PM
No, personally I dislike the printer type as it is so big. My favorite is the mini, easier to insert, but the micro works as well.
The semi assembled dat logger shield got a yellow dot, probably as it is not in stock. Maybe they only got assembled ones and if you order one without the headers (if that's the difference) they have to desolder the headers, and the labor is added to the cost.
I always buy through AliExpress as they accept iDeal.
Thanks Edwin ,in that case I'm safe :)
Post by: ShiFu on September 25, 2017, 07:10:01 AM
To do this I'll add a DS18B20 for the Condenser and connect it to Pin 6.
I'll keep the DS18B20 for the Boiler connected to Pin 7. (no change)
And I'll keep the DS18B20 for the Vapor connected to Pin 8. (no change)
Two jumpers from GND to A0 and A1 will still be needed to disable the boiler pressure alarm.
(A0 is the input pin for the pressure sensor and A1 disables the alarm)
The Arduino sketch has the Condenser alarm temperature set to 60C and if the temperature rise more than one-half a degree per second it will also trigger the alarm.
condenser alarm code.png (31.17 kB. 350x144 - viewed 1515 times.)Post by: YHB on September 26, 2017, 05:49:02 PM
You may have addressed this before and I have missed it - But - The library installed is OneWire No Resistor - but you are still using a resistor.
Can you clarify.
Post by: ShiFu on September 27, 2017, 05:15:24 AM
My RGB eParrot seems to be running fine with BOTH a 4700 Ohm Plus the 10,000 Ohm resistance from the internal software resistor.
I looked over some googled information from here (http://harizanov.com/2015/03/using-ds18b20dht22-temperature-sensor-with-internal-pull-up-resistors-rather-than-external-ones/) and there (https://wp.josh.com/2014/06/23/no-external-pull-up-needed-for-ds18b20-temp-sensor/) and it certainly seems that the added 4700 Ohm resistor is unnecessary. I'll back-annotate this thread to reflect the resistor is unnecessary after someone builds a resistorless RGB eParrot.
Post by: Eucyblues on September 27, 2017, 06:07:42 AM
http://eparrot.org/index.php/topic,126.msg1510.html#msg1510
Basically - if you have a long(ish) lead with a high capacitance you're likely to run into problems without the resistor, and even with the 4.7k resistor unless you provide power to the cable - and if you provide power you need the resistor.
Eb
Post by: YHB on September 27, 2017, 01:27:41 PM
I'll back-annotate this thread to reflect the resistor is unnecessary after someone builds a resistorless RGB eParrot.
OK, I volunteer. My shields have just arrived so I will miss off the 4K7's and see what happens.
Toodlepip
Post by: Edwin Croissant on September 27, 2017, 08:04:38 PM
Ed
Post by: ketel3 on October 07, 2017, 07:08:25 PM
For those in Europe looking for a housing for the eparrot I found some one in Belgium that makes the housing with the files produced by Jeff.
It is not cheap but I found no one elso that came near his price,or was willing to make it.
€19,50 + €7,50 shipping if some body is interrested just pm me as I do not want to post his mail and details here.
I have no commercial connection with him other than that I purchased a eparrot housing.
Cheers K3
Post by: YHB on October 07, 2017, 10:18:25 PM
OK, I volunteer. My shields have just arrived so I will miss off the 4K7's and see what happens.
I assembled mine without the aid of a resistor and everything is fine. :)
Post by: YHB on October 07, 2017, 10:23:16 PM
For those in Europe looking for a housing for the eparrot I found some one in Belgium that makes the housing with the files produced by Jeff.
It is not cheap but I found no one elso that came near his price,or was willing to make it.
€19,50 + €7,50 shipping
That is a lot better price than I could find locally, I am sure that it is a good price for people who are making these professionally but my labour is free and I have a very sharp file :D.
Post by: ketel3 on October 07, 2017, 10:28:36 PM
The housing I can make easy but the buttons,you can add simple extra buttons and solder wires to the existing ones,but to be honest I LIKE Jeffs enclosure?
This fine design deserves a nice enclosure so in this case I make a exeption and pay the price ;)
Post by: YHB on October 07, 2017, 10:53:05 PM
but to be honest I LIKE Jeffs enclosure?
So Do I :P
Post by: Edwin Croissant on October 08, 2017, 01:29:30 AM
Cleaned up some code and gave the boiler pressure it's own screen.
The use of a differential pressure sensor also allows for vacuum detection and alarm :)
To be continued.....
Edwin
Post by: ShiFu on October 09, 2017, 04:52:05 AM
I don't see much to choose from where I live and they cost over $100 USD.
Post by: Edwin Croissant on October 09, 2017, 06:06:27 PM
The silicone hose I use for testing is 2 mm id. and 4 mm od.
Post by: ShiFu on October 10, 2017, 06:51:34 AM
I'll try to find one.
Post by: ketel3 on October 12, 2017, 12:58:11 AM
Are this shown as graphs , or tekst , I have no idea about it.
Rgds K3
Post by: Edwin Croissant on October 12, 2017, 01:07:32 AM
Data inside looks like this:
Code: [Select]
RUN_25.CSV 2017-10-10T22:13:58
40,1016.5,0,0,22.62,,0,22.11,,22.06
1041,1016.4,0,0,22.62,,0,22.12,,22.00
2041,1016.5,0,0,22.62,,0,22.12,,22.06
3041,1016.5,0,0,22.62,,0,22.12,,22.06
4041,1016.5,0,0,22.62,,0,22.12,,22.06
5041,1016.5,0,0,22.62,,0,22.12,,22.06Got to make a description one day, not now :)
Busy with the next program version :)
Post by: ketel3 on October 12, 2017, 02:08:31 AM
Aha I like that option,if I'm gona used it or not this makes it very complete.
Fine that the program evaluates,I hope to find my way true all the options.
The extra sensor with alarm for the cooling water temp is a very good extra.
I have one more option that I would like ,but first complete the build tomorrow.
@ what version are we now ? I have to check as my version is one of the first ones :)
Rgds K3
Post by: ShiFu on October 12, 2017, 04:55:25 AM
....... what version are we now ? ....
Rgds K3
This is Edwin's github link that he updates often. It will have the most current version.
https://github.com/EdwinCroissant/eParrotRgbLcd
Or click here. (https://github.com/EdwinCroissant/eParrotRgbLcd)
Post by: ShiFu on October 20, 2017, 12:10:26 AM
We hope you enjoy your visit here!
Post by: ketel3 on October 20, 2017, 12:20:15 PM
I see the sensor has 4 wires positive negative pressure vacuum
So for our purpose we use only 3 wires ? as we doint need vacuum measurament .... I ask this due the kind of connector that is needed.
Post by: Edwin Croissant on October 20, 2017, 01:04:21 PM
The eParrot is tested with the appropriate sensor, needs only testing on a actual still.
Post by: ketel3 on October 20, 2017, 01:12:37 PM
Is that the right one?
Is they only way to determinate the 3 wires ?
Post by: Edwin Croissant on October 20, 2017, 01:17:38 PM
Post by: ketel3 on October 20, 2017, 01:20:47 PM
Post by: ketel3 on October 20, 2017, 04:02:37 PM
Here how it looks like,ready to do some testing.
EDIT : do NOT use this connectors due possible shortcut at moment you connect under load.
Post by: ShiFu on October 20, 2017, 04:19:13 PM
And I really like those connectors.
Post by: ketel3 on November 07, 2017, 01:38:42 AM
Post by: TOMBSTONE on January 15, 2018, 05:59:24 PM
Post by: Skannofen on January 16, 2018, 02:21:16 AM
Wonder if it this sensor would be able to read the differential pressure in the top vs bottom of a column?
That was one control favored by Herminio Brau in his continuous distillation setup in Costa Rica, way back.
Post by: Edwin Croissant on January 16, 2018, 08:56:00 PM
The larger vertical tubing is preferable transparent (PTFE?) so the operator can observe that the pressure connection to the boiler is not blocked by foam.
From memory: Around 1880 Ernest Sorrel and Savalle nearly got killed when a distillation column exploded prompting for the development and patent of a steam regulator that reduced the steam supply (that was used for heating) to the still when the pressure in the column increased. (source: A Short History of the Art of Distillation)
It is very important that the connection to the pressure sensor is not blocked. An anecdote:
To clean a large condenser on a ocean going ship both seawater in- and outlet-valves were closed. To check if the valves really were closed a pressure gauge was used to check the pressure in the condenser. To make sure, the pressure gauge was removed and it was observed that no water flowed out of the connection. One by one the nuts that held the cover in place were removed. The last couple of nuts came lose by themselves as one of the outboard valves was rusted through and the condenser was in direct contact with the sea. The engine room was completely flooded within an hour or so. It was found that rust blocked the connection to the pressure gauge.
Best practice is to loose all the nuts one turn at a time ;D
Post by: bluc on January 30, 2018, 11:10:41 AM
Post by: ketel3 on March 16, 2018, 09:50:02 PM
The output temperature sensor ds one wire temp sensor replaced by a smt 172.
The pressure sensor implemented.
Cant wait till the next run to so see how they are, a barrel wash is fermenting nicely :) to try everything out.
Post by: ketel3 on April 27, 2018, 07:53:32 PM
For cables shorter then 3 meters the internal pull-up is enough. Not for the Mega though, you still need a 4k7 resistor. I think that the best place for the resistor is near the sensor. One thing I noticed is when the resistor is on the circuit board that a disconnected supply wire will make the sensor read a fixed temperature of 85 C.
Ed
After several changes I made to my setup like :
output sensor into smt172
boiler pressure sensor added
Boiler temp sensor into the liquid instead into the vapor pad.
Today the first run with this new setup,and after 2 minits vapor temp 2 alarm occured,after a reset a few minutes later again the same alarm,and I kept resetting this alarm over and over again.
There was no temperature as reson the run just started so no reson for alarm.
Than I skipped the sensor,still the same vent 2 alarm after a few minutes ,sometimes after only 20 seconds.
I did not know what to do next,break off the run ? or keep resetting,I chosed the last option,after a few hours I was getting nuts from this alarm,Than I kept the alarm menu on for a while,HEALTY that was shown,together with the boiler pressure and both vent temperatures.
After again alarm suddenly I realized what was wrong , for just a small moment there where lines on the display where normaly the vapor2 alarm temp should be ,and I realised the connection vapor sensor 2 to eparrot was a short time gone.
I remembered the discussion about to adding a resistor 4,7 kilo ohm or not,I spoke to Edwin and he confirmed he had this problem before.
So I stopped the run added a 4,7 kilo ohm resistor from +5 volt to data from the vapor2 sensor and started the kettle again,gues what NO more alarm.
So if you ever have this problem add the resistor.
Just as extra info I have a home network for years with this ds sensors with lines up to 20 meters with no resistors and never ever had this problem.
By the way the boiler pressure sensor worked fantastic no false alarm at all,and I can advise to add it for extra safety.
Cheers K3
Post by: ketel3 on May 02, 2018, 06:34:47 PM
Colum 150 cm filled with scubbers,total colum lenght 180 cm.
Under full reflux during stabilisation max 48 dpa
During normal use between 8 and 12 dpa.
Post by: ShiFu on May 08, 2018, 03:06:49 PM
A one penny resistor to solve the problem, no need to try to do without it.
Good catch.
Post by: ketel3 on May 08, 2018, 09:24:42 PM
Post by: ketel3 on May 18, 2018, 11:01:54 PM
The pressure is for a packed colum only as that is what I tested.
As I told before the normal pressure during the run is about 8 dpa to 12 dpa
During stabilisation under full reflux the pressure is about 50 dpa to 65 dpa as a result of extra fluid into the packing and offcourse that gives extra pressure as the gas can not go freely to the top of the colum.
So it always stays under the limit of the eparrot alarm that is set to 100 dpa as standart added into the program.
This run there was time for a experiment , as always people write on several forums about danger coming from tight pressed packing into a colum DO NOT PRESS scrubbers they say without any measuraments , so okay I did exactly that,pressed the scrubbers more tight than I normaly do and see how mr Edwin his invention will make things clear.
The pressure did never reach a dangerous level It was during the complete run at about 63 dpa.
So all I can say is ok flooding may occure but there is no danger what so ever.
See the photo's I took from the run with the tight packed colum,and the photo from a normal packed colum of the previous run.
Post by: ShiFu on May 20, 2018, 06:27:11 PM
That needs to end now
And to begin to get my gear up to K3's standard.
Like K3, I want to know where Column Pressure and constant ABV collide.
***and ultimately where the peristaltic pump removal of fusel oils produces the cleanest distillate at the lowest waste.
It is a lofty goal. It involves a lot of hardware, software and run time experience.
Post by: ShiFu on August 21, 2021, 12:17:42 AM
That includes eParrot kits and parts.